Unquera to Llanes.

Day 19: Unquera to Llanes – 16.86 miles (27.13 km)

Today, we crossed the border from Cantabria into Asturias, a symbolic milestone on our journey. The weather has started to cool, with temperatures in the high 70s and a soft fog hanging in the air, giving the morning a quiet, reflective mood.

Along the way, we met a young woman from Budapest. We shared stories about our Camino experiences, exchanged tips, and talked about life, one of those meaningful, spontaneous connections that make this journey so special.

Today, Monday, is our last day of hiking. Reaching Asturias brought a sense of accomplishment but also a bittersweet feeling. We’re not yet halfway to Santiago, and this journey remains unfinished…

Comillas to Unquera

Day 18: Comillas to Unquera 16.35 miles (26.31 Km)

We started the day surrounded by a thick morning fog. As we walked alongside the ocean, we could hear the crashing waves below, but the cliffs remained hidden under the fog.

By noon, the skies cleared, revealing the view of the Picos de Europa in the distance. It was a breathtaking sight and a farewell, as today marks our final day walking through the Cantabrian region.

Santillana del Mar to Comillas.

Day 17: Santillana del Mar to Comillas – 14.68 miles (23.62 km)

Santillana del Mar was alive with celebration this morning, honoring its patron saint, Santa Juliana. At 8:00 AM, fireworks echoed through the town to mark the start of the day’s festivities. Although we were already awake, the sudden booms caught us off guard.

Today’s hike was long and intensely hot. While the temperature hovered in the low 80s, the humidity felt close to 90%, making the air thick and heavy. Despite walking near the ocean, there was no breeze to offer relief. We passed a few fellow pilgrims struggling with heat exhaustion along the way.

Comillas is an interesting town with a summer palace that belonged to the Marquis of Comillas, as well as another palace designed by Gaudí. It is definitely a town to visit again with more time.

Arce to Santillana del Mar

Day 16: Arce to Santillana del Mar – 12.41 miles (19.97 Km)

Today we met three new pilgrims—two from the U.S. who started their journey in Bilbao, and one from Romania who began in Santander.

This Camino feels different from others. Many pilgrims start or stop in various cities—some in San Sebastián, others in Bilbao or Santander—so it’s harder to form connections. El Camino del Norte has more paths than other routes, where we often walk alongside the same people for days. This time, passing through cities or villages, with short or long routes, it is very common not to see the same people for days.

 

 

Santander to Arce

 Day 15: Santander to Arce – 10.32 miles (16.60 km)

We took a well-deserved rest day in Santander, using the time to explore the city and learn its rich history and culture. It was a refreshing break from the trail.

Today’s hike was short and mostly flat, an easy transition back into walking. We had no complaints; it was a peaceful day on the Camino.

Güemes to Santander

Day 14: Güemes to Santander – 11.69 miles (18.81 km)

Today was a relatively short walking day, but not without its challenges. Our route took us along freeways, city streets, and eventually the beach, before we boarded a ferry into Santander. The weather has started heating up again—temperatures hovered in the 90s with heavy humidity, making the beach stretch particularly grueling.

Walking on sand in hiking boots is far from ideal, but going barefoot isn’t much better. The friction can aggravate blisters or irritate already tender skin. To make matters worse, the beaches here lack the shade of coconut palms or tropical trees like those in Cancun. There’s no escape from the sun, just open sand and relentless heat.

Liendo to Güemes

Day 13: Liendo to Güemes – 18.64 miles (30 km)

Today marked our longest hike yet on the Camino. After so many days on the trail, conversations among pilgrims have taken a familiar turn: aching feet, sore knees, stiff shoulders, tired backs, heat rashes, and, of course, blisters. These are the badges of long-distance hiking, worn with a mix of pride and pain. We joke about the toll it’s taking now and wonder—half seriously—how many surgeries might be in our future.

Castro to Liendo

 Day 12: Castro-Urdiales to Liendo – 16.8 miles (27 km)

The weather remained cloudy and refreshingly cool. Today’s route covered a moderate distance and was mostly flat, winding through charming towns and villages. We enjoyed scenic coastal views and gentle rolling hills along the way.

We got lost a couple of times. Navigating with electronic maps and yellow arrows can be tricky, as they don’t always align or point clearly. Still, it added a bit of adventure to the day!

 

Portugalete to Castro Urdiales.

Day 11: Portugalete to Castro Urdiales – 16 miles (25.75 km)

In Portugalete, we visited the Basilica of Santa Maria, where seminarian Iker welcomed us and told us a little about the church’s history. There is a lot to learn about the various civil wars in Spain.  We enjoy learning about the city’s history and its unique hanging bridge.

Today, Saturday, the temperature dropped by about 20 degrees, and the skies turned overcast—perfect conditions for a long hike. The lengthy hike rewarded us with stunning ocean views along the way. Unfortunately, the final 7 kilometers were less enjoyable, as we had to walk along the highway with no designated pedestrian path.