Navia to Ribadeo

Today’s walk from Navia to Ribadeo covered 21.16 miles (34 kilometers), making it our longest stage so far on the Camino del Norte. It was also our final day hiking along the ocean before crossing from Asturias into Galicia.

When we arrived in Ribadeo, we saw a group of pilgrims near the estuary cooling off in the water. After so many miles in the heat, it felt like one of those small Camino rewards that appears at just the right time.

Entering Galicia, the final region of the Camino del Norte, made the day feel even more memorable.

By the time we reached town, we were tired but proud. The stage challenged us, yet it gave us a moment we will remember: leaving the ocean behind and realizing just how far we had walked.

Muros de Nalón to Santa Marina

Muros de Nalón to Santa Marina — 16.01 miles (25.75 km)

It was one of the hardest days of the journey, with constant climbs and descents. The elevation changes made the stage feel longer and more demanding than the distance alone suggests, but the scenery made the effort worthwhile.

We walked through rural villages and along dramatic cliffs, with a mix of quiet roads, forest paths, and beautiful views of the Asturian coastline. We stayed at Pensión Prada, a charming pilgrim-friendly place in Santa Marina. The owner was very kind, and the warm welcome felt like an example of Asturian hospitality.

Colunga to Villaviciosa

Day 22: Colunga to Villaviciosa – 11 miles (18 km) 

Today was a short, mostly flat walk. We saw the French pilgrims group, the English women, and new faces along the way. Interestingly, we recognize each other, have small talk,and do not know their names. Everybody is friendly, but no one asks for names. 

We arrived at Villavisiosa, the Cider Capital.  

Ribadesella to Colunga

Day 21: Ribadesella to Colunga – 12 miles (19 km) Today, along the way, we met a group of five French pilgrims who, like us, started walking El Camino del Norte last year and are planning to arrive in Santiago in a few weeks. 

The journey today took us through valleys and cliffs. There were more cyclists on the trail, and this year it is common to see them on electric bikes.  

We spent the night in a small hotel that was once the home of an Indiano. In this region, the legacy of the Indianos still lingers in street names, restaurant names, and in the mansions that appear unexpectedly in small towns. The Indianos were the Spanish who made their fortunes in the Americas and later returned to Spain, especially between the 17th and 18th centuries. With their wealth, many built striking mansions and helped reshape the local economy. Today, some of those mansions are hotels, schools, or even museums.   

 A local guide explained that many Indianos supported the construction of churches, monasteries, and convents to obtain pardon from the Church for sins committed in the Americas. It was one of those details that made you want to look more closely into the history behind these buildings.  

Llanes to Ribadesella

Day 20 (2026), we walked from Llanes to Ribadesella, 20 miles (32 km). The hike was easy but long; there was some confusion with the itinerary and Google Maps. We thought the hike was only 23 km today, but it ended up being 9 km more, taking two extra hours. At least the weather was pleasant. We walked alongside the Picos de Europa mountain range, which we didn’t have to climb today, and we admired the breathtaking views of the cliffs and the ocean.

We had an interesting dinner at a local bar whose owners are Mexican descendants and whose menu is a fusion of Spanish and Mexican cuisines.

 

Unquera to Llanes.

Day 19: Unquera to Llanes – 16.86 miles (27.13 km)

Today, we crossed the border from Cantabria into Asturias, a symbolic milestone on our journey. The weather has started to cool, with temperatures in the high 70s and a soft fog hanging in the air, giving the morning a quiet, reflective mood.

Along the way, we met a young woman from Budapest. We shared stories about our Camino experiences, exchanged tips, and talked about life, one of those meaningful, spontaneous connections that make this journey so special.

Today, Monday, is our last day of hiking. Reaching Asturias brought a sense of accomplishment but also a bittersweet feeling. We’re not yet halfway to Santiago, and this journey remains unfinished…

Comillas to Unquera

Day 18: Comillas to Unquera 16.35 miles (26.31 Km)

We started the day surrounded by a thick morning fog. As we walked alongside the ocean, we could hear the crashing waves below, but the cliffs remained hidden under the fog.

By noon, the skies cleared, revealing the view of the Picos de Europa in the distance. It was a breathtaking sight and a farewell, as today marks our final day walking through the Cantabrian region.

Santillana del Mar to Comillas.

Day 17: Santillana del Mar to Comillas – 14.68 miles (23.62 km)

Santillana del Mar was alive with celebration this morning, honoring its patron saint, Santa Juliana. At 8:00 AM, fireworks echoed through the town to mark the start of the day’s festivities. Although we were already awake, the sudden booms caught us off guard.

Today’s hike was long and intensely hot. While the temperature hovered in the low 80s, the humidity felt close to 90%, making the air thick and heavy. Despite walking near the ocean, there was no breeze to offer relief. We passed a few fellow pilgrims struggling with heat exhaustion along the way.

Comillas is an interesting town with a summer palace that belonged to the Marquis of Comillas, as well as another palace designed by Gaudí. It is definitely a town to visit again with more time.

Arce to Santillana del Mar

Day 16: Arce to Santillana del Mar – 12.41 miles (19.97 Km)

Today we met three new pilgrims—two from the U.S. who started their journey in Bilbao, and one from Romania who began in Santander.

This Camino feels different from others. Many pilgrims start or stop in various cities—some in San Sebastián, others in Bilbao or Santander—so it’s harder to form connections. El Camino del Norte has more paths than other routes, where we often walk alongside the same people for days. This time, passing through cities or villages, with short or long routes, it is very common not to see the same people for days.