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A Ponte Ferreira to Melide

July 7, 2024March 1, 2025Posted in El camino de Santiago, El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive wayTagged Camino Primitivo, El camino de Santiago, Hiking, Saint James way, SantiagodecompostelaLeave a comment

Today, we hiked about 20 km to Melide from Ponte Ferreira. We crossed a historic Roman bridge outside Ponte Ferreira, and at this point, I lost track of how many Roman or archeological zones we passed en route to Santiago.

The hike was easy. We walked through rural towns and villages, and a sense of tranquility was around us. We are approaching Melide, where the French Way and El Camino Primitivo cross. The trail will be busy in the coming days with people doing the last 100 km and those doing the French Way. Today is the last day to enjoy a quiet hike.

We arrived in Melide around lunchtime. It was busy; it was market day, and hundreds of pilgrims were walking on the streets. Some would spend the night here, and others were walking through. I have a feeling about how our hike will be tomorrow.

Lugo to A Ponte Ferreira

July 6, 2024December 23, 2024Posted in El camino Primitivo, Hike, Hikes, primitive wayTagged backpacking, camping, El camino de Santiago, fitness, Hiking, Saint James way, Santiagodecompostela, travelLeave a comment

We spent one day in Lugo and had the opportunity to tour this walled city and learn about its importance during the Roman Empire.

In Lugo, several people have begun their journey to Santiago. We found more people and groups of recent high school graduates on the trail. Unfortunately, this group has been the loudest and listening to music on the trails.

The trails are now flat, with very little change in altitude, as in the Asturias area. Today is Sunday, and several bars and restaurants are closed, making it impossible to find a place to rest and drink coffee. We only found one restaurant, where we had to wait about 45 minutes until they opened the kitchen. While waiting, a group of English hikers told us that two of their friends had been attacked by a loose dog, and they had to call an ambulance to take them to the hospital.

In all the Caminos we have done, this is the first time we have heard of a dog attacking hikers on the trail.

Cocido en un restaurante en el camino de Santiago

A Fosangrada to O Cadavo

July 3, 2024September 13, 2024Posted in El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive wayLeave a comment

Today, we hiked 26 km on Stage 8 of our journey to Santiago. Along the way, we had the opportunity to walk and chat with various individuals on a wide range of topics, from light-hearted to more profound discussions.

In the past few days, we crossed paths with a hiker, and finally, today, we had the opportunity to talk with him as we walked. The gentleman is from California. He described himself as a nomad and has been in Spain walking for a few months, having already completed six Caminos. It’s not the first time we’ve met someone like him hiking different European trails. He told us he retired from a high-tech job and decided to live abroad. Since then, he has been traveling in Europe. He reminds me of another man we met on England’s Coast to Coast trail last year. The man from last year was also retired and had left the United States to begin hiking in Spain and other European areas. He was a fascinating man, known as the “Indiana Johns” of the Coast to Coast because everybody knew him, and he had fascinating stories to share.

The two men seem to be hiking through Europe, seeking to embark on a journey of personal renewal following years of dedicating themselves to their professional careers.

Berducedo to Grandas De Salime

July 1, 2024September 13, 2024Posted in El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive wayTagged El camino de SantiagoLeave a comment

We had a wonderful evening at Casa Aldea Aracely. The charming house is next to a farm and has views of the mountains. I wish we could have extended our stay to more than one night, but we have to keep going.

Today’s hike was not too challenging. We covered a distance of 20.5 kilometers (13 miles) with mostly downhill terrain and pleasant weather. Along the way, we had views of the Salime Reservoir and Salime Dam.

After two days of descending the hills, our bodies feel the strain, especially our knees. We are nearing the end of crossing the Cantabrian Mountains.

Pola de Allande to Berducedo

June 30, 2024September 13, 2024Posted in El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive way1 Comment

Today’s hike was quite challenging as we tackled the highest point of the Camino Primitivo, reaching an elevation of 3,760 feet. The trail was strenuous with rugged mountainous terrain, but the breathtaking view from the peak made it all worth it. Adding to the challenge was the absence of restaurants or cafes along this route. Although the guide mentioned restaurants in some villages, we were disappointed that the ones we reached were all closed.

Tineo to Pola de Allande

June 29, 2024September 13, 2024Posted in El camino de Santiago, El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive wayTagged Camino Primitivo, El camino de Santiago, primitive wayLeave a comment

Today’s journey from Tineo to Pola de Allande, was a walk of 31 kilometers. As we set out in the morning, gentle rain accompanied our walk through the serene Asturias Forest. The misty atmosphere created by the fog transformed the surroundings into a mystical and introspective setting, inspiring deep reflection.

In the afternoon, we met Castine, better known as the German lady. As we walked through the forest, we saw a woman standing in front of the Jedi bench (see picture) at the foot of a hill, debating if she should go up to the mountain to see the ruins of a hospital today or tomorrow. We told her we would not do it, so she walked with us. It is nice to meet people in El Camino; even briefly, talking with them can impact us or at least make our hike more bearable.

As we strolled alongside her, she imparted her knowledge about the flora around us. She pointed out which flowers could be used for tea and even plucked some leaves that are high water contain. Suddenly, she darted ahead, reaching into a cluster of bushes and emerging with a handful of four wild strawberries. With a smile, she declared -this is gold- and shared these strawberries with us. After accompanying us for a few more miles, she stopped because she had reached her Albergue. The last time we saw the German lady was as she sat amidst the forest, surrounded by blooms and enjoying fresh fruit. Meeting her along El Camino was indeed a captivating experience.

Oviedo to Grado

June 25, 2024May 10, 2025Posted in El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive wayTagged Camino Primitivo, El camino de Santiago, Hiking, primitive way, Saint James wayLeave a comment

The first stage of El Camino Primitivo is 28 km/17 miles.

We were very excited to start the journey to Santiago. After we left Oviedo, we entered the forest. Most of the walk was easy. We walked through farms, saw several town washhouses, and crossed ancient bridges, including the bridge Peñaflor over río Nalon, built in the 12th century, where the Spanish and Napoleon’s troops fought during the war. Also, we encountered the remains of a Roman house.

As we walked through the villages today, the number of abandoned houses struck us, each a silent testament to the passage of time.

Compostela

June 24, 2024June 24, 2024Posted in El camino Primitivo, Hike, primitive wayLeave a comment

During our visit to Paris last year, we did the first stage of Saint James Way, a famous pilgrimage route. Our journey began with a visit to the pilgrim’s office nestled in the city’s heart, where we obtained the pilgrim’s credential. This booklet records our journey, getting stamped along the way to validate the distance covered. It is a crucial document as it attests to our commitment to walking The Saint James Way (El Camino de Santiago) and is essential for obtaining the Compostela. The Compostela, a document that certifies the completion of El Camino de Santiago, is awarded by church authorities. It can be obtained from the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago, making it a tangible proof of our pilgrimage and achievement.

This summer, we return to Spain to walk the Camino Primitivo, covering approximately 225 miles in the northwest of Spain. This route is our third Camino, and we will walk through Asturias and Galicia.

We are using our French pilgrim’s credential with the first stamp from the Notre Dame Cathedral and also adding the 11 miles from Paris to Massy.