Saint Jean deLuz to Hondarribia

Stage 2: Saint Jean de Luz to Hondarribia, 9 miles (14.484 Km).

We began the hike today at Église Saint Jean Baptiste, where we received the second stamp on our pilgrim credentials.

We followed a map from the All Trails app to walk toward the Spanish border. Someone had previously completed this route and shared the map on the app. It proved helpful, as we spotted some El Camino markers along the trail. However, we encountered some challenges: the grass along the route was overgrown, and some sections were closed due to landslides, forcing us to walk along the freeway.

Finally, when we arrived at Domaine d’Abbadie, we enjoyed a pleasant walk to the sea. I should mention that a heat wave has affected the area for the past two days, with temperatures ranging from 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity at 90%. Walking on the asphalt felt like being in an oven.

Upon reaching the town of Hendaye, we took a ferry to cross into Spain, we wanted to avoid walking to Irún in the heat and on the asphalt.

Grado to Salas

The second day of walking was 23 Km/ 14.29 miles.

Today has been the most challenging day because of the weather. The temperature was 75°F and 95% humidity. The weather in Asturias is very humid; it reminds me of the weather from Yucatan, that feeling of heat coming from the ground before rain.

On our hike today, we walked through the forest, but we did a lot of walking on asphalt, so it was challenging to hike with the heat coming from the ground. We also saw the historic San Salvador De Cornellana Monastery, which has a rich history dating back to its foundation in 1024.

According to local legend, a little girl from a prominent family once got lost in the forest, and a female bear took care of her until she was found. In gratitude for this survival miracle, the girl’s family founded a monastery and engraved the image of the female bear nursing the girl on the main door.

Contemplating structures that have stood for over a millennium prompts us to reflect on the brevity of our lives on Earth.

 

Burgo Ranero to León.

Copyright RJK

Me: Today was our last day walking our pilgrimage this year. I can’t believe how fast three weeks went by. We challenged ourselves every day, and we suffered a little, but this has been the most fantastic experience in our lives so far. I walked 25km. (15 mi) today, and then I took a taxi to Leon, but Jeremy did the walk to Leon 41 km (25 mi), almost eight hrs.

Jeremy: This was our last day walking the Camino of Santiago this year. We will be back next year to walk the final 13 stages. We have done 289 out of 480 miles total.

Today was a record. More than 25 miles (41 km) total.

This has been an unforgettable three weeks despite tendinitis in both shins, achy knees, and extremely sore feet. Can’t wait to get back on the trail next year to finish our pilgrimage!

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Belorrado to Ages 

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We didn’t have rain today, it was an easy walk, especially for Jeremy who has tendinitis. We walk through a long, beautiful, and boring forest in Europe, probably eight kilometers of the same green scenery followed by a local Cuckoo bird. From now on every time I hear a Cuckoo clock it is going to remind me of this stretch of El Camino. This afternoon when we arrived at our hostel we learned that the water heater was broken and our host was trying to find another accommodation for us. Luckily we had the best travel agent who also was looking for a place where we could stay for the night. Right now is the highest season for El Camino and the small towns don’t have enough beds for all the pilgrims that are arriving every day.  At the end, we stayed in a hotel outside Burgos. Tomorrow we are going to be drive back to Ages and start where we stopped today.

Sto. Domingo to Belorado

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Today was the most challenging day for me, it’s not only that the body is getting tired, it’s the emotional aspect, I’m tired of the rain and wind and for the first time, I had a breakdown on El Camino. I was hungry, tired, and had no sight of a near town, it was the first time that I question myself, why am I doing this? Jeremy has tendinitis in his left shin, which is slowing him.

7:30pm, we went for dinner at the restaurant where most pilgrims go in Belorado, Albergue Cuatro Cantores; it was like a party, everybody was happy to see each other, people catching up about how was the walk, how the injuries are doing, the rain, and so on. It has been a very delightful dinner with fellow pilgrims.

9:25pm, time to go to bed, tomorrow is a new day.

Zubiri to Pamplona

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Our third day of walking found us off to our usual 8am starts, leaving the village of Zubiri and heading towards the provincial capital of Pamplona. We had visited Pamplona prior, but we were eager to arrive as we had built a rest day into our stay. This was good planning on our end. But more on that later…

The day found us covering mostly level terrain with pretty hills and valleys and very few steep climbs or descents. The first seventy percent was mostly rural until we hit the outskirts of Pamplona. And with our entrance into the suburbs, we experienced our first significant pilgrim transition. Prior to entering the satellite towns of Pamplona, we were pilgrims amidst pilgrims. Everything revolved around the Camino, including all people who crossed our paths. However, entering back into everyday Spanish life, with the hustle and bustle of the city, we realize that we were invisible. Everyone was busy with their lives, their work, their family, and the distractions of living, and here we were, arriving, each of us with our own reasons for walking, but with only the immediate need to keep on walking, our every day lives very much in the background. For us, at least, it was a moment of appreciation to have this month to step back from our daily routine and do something of great introspection.

St. Jean Pied-De-Port-Roncesvalles

We did it, we hiked through the Pyrenees! We had great weather today, so we took Route de Napoleon which was 25km through the most beautiful views and several microclimates in the mountains with an altitude of 1450m above sea level. We are very tired but happy that we did the most difficult part of El Camino in good time, in good weather, and without big surprises.