A Ponte Ferreira to Melide

El Camino primitivo

Today, we hiked about 20 km to Melide from Ponte Ferreira. We crossed a historic Roman bridge outside Ponte Ferreira, and at this point, I lost track of how many Roman or archeological zones we passed en route to Santiago.

The hike was easy. We walked through rural towns and villages, and a sense of tranquility was around us. We are approaching Melide, where the French Way and El Camino Primitivo cross. The trail will be busy in the coming days with people doing the last 100 km and those doing the French Way. Today is the last day to enjoy a quiet hike.

We arrived in Melide around lunchtime. It was busy; it was market day, and hundreds of pilgrims were walking on the streets. Some would spend the night here, and others were walking through. I have a feeling about how our hike will be tomorrow.

Lugo to A Ponte Ferreira

We spent one day in Lugo and had the opportunity to tour this walled city and learn about its importance during the Roman Empire.

In Lugo, several people have begun their journey to Santiago. We found more people and groups of recent high school graduates on the trail. Unfortunately, this group has been the loudest and listening to music on the trails.

The trails are now flat, with very little change in altitude, as in the Asturias area. Today is Sunday, and several bars and restaurants are closed, making it impossible to find a place to rest and drink coffee. We only found one restaurant, where we had to wait about 45 minutes until they opened the kitchen. While waiting, a group of English hikers told us that two of their friends had been attacked by a loose dog, and they had to call an ambulance to take them to the hospital.

In all the Caminos we have done, this is the first time we have heard of a dog attacking hikers on the trail.

Rua to Santiago

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Santiago! Through more eucalyptus forests in the morning before hitting the city and working our way towards the square and the cathedral. Emotions were high when we arrived a bit after lunch. Tears of joy and stupefaction at reaching our goal. 800km walked, 45000 feet ascended, 45000 feet descended, 33 days walking. Tomorrow we will explore Santiago…..

Moratinos to El Burgo Ranero.

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Today we had early rain showers in the morning, and then by mid-morning we had wind. It’s official, I would prefer to walk in the rain than walk-in 15mi/h winds.

We walked 32km today and were quite tired when we arrived at the hotel. We only have one more segment on this leg of the Camino before returning to the States.

Carrion de los Condes to Moratinos.

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It was a bittersweet farewell during breakfast today because it was the last time we ate with the people we met in St. Jean or Roncesvalles.

We saw during lunch the 82 year old pilgrim who was at the hospital. He is doing well and will be walking slowly for the following days.

Otherwise, it was a flat but very long trek through the Meseta, and we got slammed by a thunderstorm during the last kilometer into town.

Castrojeriz to Fromista.

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Walking through La Meseta has been interesting. The only way not to lose your sanity is to walk through with a good attitude and be open to starting a conversation with anyone who crosses your path. Otherwise, the flat and repetitive scenery will drive you crazy, and most people are eager to talk to someone. Today we learned that an 82 years old gentleman got sick on the trail and was taken to the hospital for observation. His friends think he got dehydrated or maybe had a stroke.

For the past two nights, we have met our new friends for dinner or for a glass of wine, and the conversation that we had with them is priceless (what happens in El Camino stay in El Camino.)

Jeremy and I are sad because we will not finish el Camino with them to cheer up and congratulate each other in the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. We have to go back in a few days to California and wait a year to return to finish our walk to Santiago de Compostela.

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Hornillos to Castrojeriz

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Today we had a charming walk with a group of people that included a one-hour second breakfast along el Camino. We had dinner together, and the conversation was very interesting, with many people from different backgrounds and countries sharing their experiences. It seems that the largest representation is from Australia, although there are plenty of French, Spanish, English, Americans, and virtually every other country represented. And, of course, we are also encountering all walks of life. Among us, there is an actor, an Anglican priest, plenty of retirees, a venture capitalist, students, a lawyer, etc. The great thing about the Camino is that it sets everyone as equals.