Arce to Santillana del Mar

Day 16: Arce to Santillana del Mar – 12.41 miles (19.97 Km)

Today we met three new pilgrims—two from the U.S. who started their journey in Bilbao, and one from Romania who began in Santander.

This Camino feels different from others. Many pilgrims start or stop in various cities—some in San Sebastián, others in Bilbao or Santander—so it’s harder to form connections. El Camino del Norte has more paths than other routes, where we often walk alongside the same people for days. This time, passing through cities or villages, with short or long routes, it is very common not to see the same people for days.

 

 

Rubiaes to Tui.

Today was an easy hike, only nine and a half miles, and we crossed the border between Portugal and Spain. We had excellent weather, and I think we spent more time eating the second breakfast and lunch than walking, which is good because at this point, we are tired and with minor injuries in our feet and knees.

Crossing the border between Spain and Portugal is seamless, the geographical division between both countries is the Rio Minho. Beside the signs that identified each territory is the spoken language change and an hour of time difference.

Tui is a beautiful medieval town with citadel and church on a central hill overlooking the river.

Moratinos to El Burgo Ranero.

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Today we had early rain showers in the morning, and then by mid-morning we had wind. It’s official, I would prefer to walk in the rain than walk-in 15mi/h winds.

We walked 32km today and were quite tired when we arrived at the hotel. We only have one more segment on this leg of the Camino before returning to the States.

Carrion de los Condes to Moratinos.

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It was a bittersweet farewell during breakfast today because it was the last time we ate with the people we met in St. Jean or Roncesvalles.

We saw during lunch the 82 year old pilgrim who was at the hospital. He is doing well and will be walking slowly for the following days.

Otherwise, it was a flat but very long trek through the Meseta, and we got slammed by a thunderstorm during the last kilometer into town.

Castrojeriz to Fromista.

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Walking through La Meseta has been interesting. The only way not to lose your sanity is to walk through with a good attitude and be open to starting a conversation with anyone who crosses your path. Otherwise, the flat and repetitive scenery will drive you crazy, and most people are eager to talk to someone. Today we learned that an 82 years old gentleman got sick on the trail and was taken to the hospital for observation. His friends think he got dehydrated or maybe had a stroke.

For the past two nights, we have met our new friends for dinner or for a glass of wine, and the conversation that we had with them is priceless (what happens in El Camino stay in El Camino.)

Jeremy and I are sad because we will not finish el Camino with them to cheer up and congratulate each other in the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. We have to go back in a few days to California and wait a year to return to finish our walk to Santiago de Compostela.

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Hornillos to Castrojeriz

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Today we had a charming walk with a group of people that included a one-hour second breakfast along el Camino. We had dinner together, and the conversation was very interesting, with many people from different backgrounds and countries sharing their experiences. It seems that the largest representation is from Australia, although there are plenty of French, Spanish, English, Americans, and virtually every other country represented. And, of course, we are also encountering all walks of life. Among us, there is an actor, an Anglican priest, plenty of retirees, a venture capitalist, students, a lawyer, etc. The great thing about the Camino is that it sets everyone as equals.

Ages to Burgos.

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We are in week two of our pilgrimage, and we have already walked 288.9 Km (179mi). Today we walked in the company of a couple from Australia, who also started in St. Jean. We arrived together in Burgos today, Sunday. After resting in our hotel this afternoon, we went out for a walk in the old town. It was nice to see our fellow pilgrims in town, enjoying a glass of beer or just sitting watching people come and go. We ran into a group of people that we met on day one, and as we were chatting, we realized that there was time for Sunday mass. We went for mass in the most beautiful cathedral in the world, Catedral de Burgos. It was filled with a good number of pilgrims of all nationalities.

Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

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This afternoon we arrived at Sto. Domingo, around 2 o’clock, we heard the church’s bells playing, and we learned it was a special day when all the worshipers from the mass left the church. We were trapped by the mob. Here we are, two sweaty, dirty pilgrims walking along very well-dressed people celebrating their saint’s day.