El Camino de Santiago and other trails.
Today’s hike was 18.5 km (12 miles). The terrain in this area is mostly flat.
As we left Arzúa, we observed the numerous pilgrims on various routes walking toward Santiago. It’s incredible to see the number of people hiking. While some are respectful of their surroundings, others blast music. For this segment of El Camino, it’s best to start hiking early in the morning to avoid the “rush hour.”
The distance we walked today was short, only 14 km (8 miles). The hike was relatively easy; we did this route in 2017 for our first Camino. We notice how the villages have changed over the years and how positive the tourism from El Camino de Santiago has been for the local economy.
Today, we stayed at Pazo de Brandeso, near Arzúa. It is a historic manor constructed in 1554; the Pazo showcases the architectural elegance of the period. We had the opportunity to tour the property and learn about its history and its owners.
Today, we hiked about 20 km to Melide from Ponte Ferreira. We crossed a historic Roman bridge outside Ponte Ferreira, and at this point, I lost track of how many Roman or archeological zones we passed en route to Santiago.
The hike was easy. We walked through rural towns and villages, and a sense of tranquility was around us. We are approaching Melide, where the French Way and El Camino Primitivo cross. The trail will be busy in the coming days with people doing the last 100 km and those doing the French Way. Today is the last day to enjoy a quiet hike.
We arrived in Melide around lunchtime. It was busy; it was market day, and hundreds of pilgrims were walking on the streets. Some would spend the night here, and others were walking through. I have a feeling about how our hike will be tomorrow.
We spent one day in Lugo and had the opportunity to tour this walled city and learn about its importance during the Roman Empire.
In Lugo, several people have begun their journey to Santiago. We found more people and groups of recent high school graduates on the trail. Unfortunately, this group has been the loudest and listening to music on the trails.
The trails are now flat, with very little change in altitude, as in the Asturias area. Today is Sunday, and several bars and restaurants are closed, making it impossible to find a place to rest and drink coffee. We only found one restaurant, where we had to wait about 45 minutes until they opened the kitchen. While waiting, a group of English hikers told us that two of their friends had been attacked by a loose dog, and they had to call an ambulance to take them to the hospital.
In all the Caminos we have done, this is the first time we have heard of a dog attacking hikers on the trail.
Today, we completed our longest hike, covering 19.2 miles (32 kilometers) from O Cadavo to Lugo on the Camino Primitivo. This section of the Camino de Santiago offers a blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.
We still have approximately 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) left to reach Santiago. Along our journey, we’ve had the opportunity to meet fellow hikers with diverse motivations for making this pilgrimage. Some seek spiritual enlightenment; the challenge of physical endurance draws others, while many are simply pursuing adventure. It’s been gratifying to share the path with various people. My daughter has kept a list of the people she’s met and their countries of origin. As a fun fact, she was the first to predict who would fall in love on “El Camino.”
We plan to take a break in the historic city of Lugo tomorrow. Lugo, originally a Roman settlement dating back to the year 25, is known for its well-preserved Roman walls and rich history. It is worth a visit.
We had a good evening in Grandas de Salime. We had dinner at Cafe Restrepo. This cafe/bar is a good place to spend the afternoon. It was different from the other cafes we had visited in other towns. It had good music and eclectic decoration, and the owners were very friendly. There were a good number of pilgrims here, and we had the opportunity to chat and meet new people.
After a good night’s rest, we found that one hiker in our group could not walk today due to severe knee pain and tendonitis. We arranged for her to take a taxi to the next city and rest for the day. We were aware that today’s journey would be another 28 kilometers (17.5 miles)of descending and ascending hills.
We left Grandas de Salime, which is in the Asturias region and started our journey toward A Fonsagrada, a town in the Galicia region. Most of the hike was good, but the last part leading into A Fonsagrada presented a challenging uphill climb, where we ascended 120 meters (400 feet). After hiking for six hours, it was cruel to finally see the town at the top of a hill. As we were ascending the last hill, we heard someone shouting behind us. Of course, I wasn’t the only one who used the F word and cursed at the sight of that daunting hill.
We had a wonderful evening at Casa Aldea Aracely. The charming house is next to a farm and has views of the mountains. I wish we could have extended our stay to more than one night, but we have to keep going.
Today’s hike was not too challenging. We covered a distance of 20.5 kilometers (13 miles) with mostly downhill terrain and pleasant weather. Along the way, we had views of the Salime Reservoir and Salime Dam.
After two days of descending the hills, our bodies feel the strain, especially our knees. We are nearing the end of crossing the Cantabrian Mountains.
Today’s journey from Tineo to Pola de Allande, was a walk of 31 kilometers. As we set out in the morning, gentle rain accompanied our walk through the serene Asturias Forest. The misty atmosphere created by the fog transformed the surroundings into a mystical and introspective setting, inspiring deep reflection.
In the afternoon, we met Castine, better known as the German lady. As we walked through the forest, we saw a woman standing in front of the Jedi bench (see picture) at the foot of a hill, debating if she should go up to the mountain to see the ruins of a hospital today or tomorrow. We told her we would not do it, so she walked with us. It is nice to meet people in El Camino; even briefly, talking with them can impact us or at least make our hike more bearable.
As we strolled alongside her, she imparted her knowledge about the flora around us. She pointed out which flowers could be used for tea and even plucked some leaves that are high water contain. Suddenly, she darted ahead, reaching into a cluster of bushes and emerging with a handful of four wild strawberries. With a smile, she declared -this is gold- and shared these strawberries with us. After accompanying us for a few more miles, she stopped because she had reached her Albergue. The last time we saw the German lady was as she sat amidst the forest, surrounded by blooms and enjoying fresh fruit. Meeting her along El Camino was indeed a captivating experience.
Today, we did the third stage of el Camino Primitivo, a 22 km (13.67 miles) hike from Salas to Tineo. The route took us through picturesque woodlands and muddy fields. Along the way, we come across la Ermita de San Roque, a stunning example of Romanesque architecture dating back to the 12th century.
TrekTok 