O Cadavo to Lugo

Today, we completed our longest hike, covering 19.2 miles (32 kilometers) from O Cadavo to Lugo on the Camino Primitivo. This section of the Camino de Santiago offers a blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

We still have approximately 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) left to reach Santiago. Along our journey, we’ve had the opportunity to meet fellow hikers with diverse motivations for making this pilgrimage. Some seek spiritual enlightenment; the challenge of physical endurance draws others, while many are simply pursuing adventure. It’s been gratifying to share the path with various people. My daughter has kept a list of the people she’s met and their countries of origin. As a fun fact, she was the first to predict who would fall in love on “El Camino.”

We plan to take a break in the historic city of Lugo tomorrow. Lugo, originally a Roman settlement dating back to the year 25, is known for its well-preserved Roman walls and rich history. It is worth a visit.

Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada

We had a good evening in Grandas de Salime. We had dinner at Cafe Restrepo. This cafe/bar is a good place to spend the afternoon. It was different from the other cafes we had visited in other towns. It had good music and eclectic decoration, and the owners were very friendly. There were a good number of pilgrims here, and we had the opportunity to chat and meet new people. 

After a good night’s rest, we found that one hiker in our group could not walk today due to severe knee pain and tendonitis. We arranged for her to take a taxi to the next city and rest for the day. We were aware that today’s journey would be another 28 kilometers (17.5 miles)of descending and ascending hills. 

We left Grandas de Salime, which is in the Asturias region and started our journey toward A Fonsagrada, a town in the Galicia region. Most of the hike was good, but the last part leading into A Fonsagrada presented a challenging uphill climb, where we ascended 120 meters (400 feet). After hiking for six hours, it was cruel to finally see the town at the top of a hill.  As we were ascending the last hill, we heard someone shouting behind us. Of course, I wasn’t the only one who used the F word and cursed at the sight of that daunting hill. 

Berducedo to Grandas De Salime

We had a wonderful evening at Casa Aldea Aracely. The charming house is next to a farm and has views of the mountains. I wish we could have extended our stay to more than one night, but we have to keep going.

Today’s hike was not too challenging. We covered a distance of 20.5 kilometers (13 miles) with mostly downhill terrain and pleasant weather. Along the way, we had views of the Salime Reservoir and Salime Dam.

After two days of descending the hills, our bodies feel the strain, especially our knees. We are nearing the end of crossing the Cantabrian Mountains.

Tineo to Pola de Allande

Today’s journey from Tineo to Pola de Allande, was a walk of 31 kilometers. As we set out in the morning, gentle rain accompanied our walk through the serene Asturias Forest. The misty atmosphere created by the fog transformed the surroundings into a mystical and introspective setting, inspiring deep reflection.

In the afternoon, we met Castine, better known as the German lady. As we walked through the forest, we saw a woman standing in front of the Jedi bench (see picture) at the foot of a hill, debating if she should go up to the mountain to see the ruins of a hospital today or tomorrow. We told her we would not do it, so she walked with us. It is nice to meet people in El Camino; even briefly, talking with them can impact us or at least make our hike more bearable.

As we strolled alongside her, she imparted her knowledge about the flora around us. She pointed out which flowers could be used for tea and even plucked some leaves that are high water contain. Suddenly, she darted ahead, reaching into a cluster of bushes and emerging with a handful of four wild strawberries. With a smile, she declared -this is gold- and shared these strawberries with us. After accompanying us for a few more miles, she stopped because she had reached her Albergue. The last time we saw the German lady was as she sat amidst the forest, surrounded by blooms and enjoying fresh fruit. Meeting her along El Camino was indeed a captivating experience. 

Grado to Salas

The second day of walking was 23 Km/ 14.29 miles.

Today has been the most challenging day because of the weather. The temperature was 75°F and 95% humidity. The weather in Asturias is very humid; it reminds me of the weather from Yucatan, that feeling of heat coming from the ground before rain.

On our hike today, we walked through the forest, but we did a lot of walking on asphalt, so it was challenging to hike with the heat coming from the ground. We also saw the historic San Salvador De Cornellana Monastery, which has a rich history dating back to its foundation in 1024.

According to local legend, a little girl from a prominent family once got lost in the forest, and a female bear took care of her until she was found. In gratitude for this survival miracle, the girl’s family founded a monastery and engraved the image of the female bear nursing the girl on the main door.

Contemplating structures that have stood for over a millennium prompts us to reflect on the brevity of our lives on Earth.

 

Oviedo to Grado

The first stage of El Camino Primitivo is 28 km/17 miles. 

We were very excited to start the journey to Santiago. After we left Oviedo, we entered the forest. Most of the walk was easy. We walked through farms, saw several town washhouses, and crossed ancient bridges, including the bridge Peñaflor over río Nalon, built in the 12th century, where the Spanish and Napoleon’s troops fought during the war. Also, we encountered the remains of a Roman house.

 As we walked through the villages today, the number of abandoned houses struck us, each a silent testament to the passage of time.

 

Padrón to Santiago de Compostela.

El sepulcro de Santiago

Our second time walking into Santiago but this time with our daughters. We walked 175 miles over 13 days and started in Porto, Portugal. We are tired and sore but very gratified to have finished this adventure as a family. Santiago de Compostela is a city steeped in a rich and intriguing history. Happy to have had the opportunity a second time to arrive here on foot.