Unquera to Llanes.

Day 19: Unquera to Llanes – 16.86 miles (27.13 km)

Today, we crossed the border from Cantabria into Asturias, a symbolic milestone on our journey. The weather has started to cool, with temperatures in the high 70s and a soft fog hanging in the air, giving the morning a quiet, reflective mood.

Along the way, we met a young woman from Budapest. We shared stories about our Camino experiences, exchanged tips, and talked about life, one of those meaningful, spontaneous connections that make this journey so special.

Today, Monday, is our last day of hiking. Reaching Asturias brought a sense of accomplishment but also a bittersweet feeling. We’re not yet halfway to Santiago, and this journey remains unfinished…

Comillas to Unquera

Day 18: Comillas to Unquera 16.35 miles (26.31 Km)

We started the day surrounded by a thick morning fog. As we walked alongside the ocean, we could hear the crashing waves below, but the cliffs remained hidden under the fog.

By noon, the skies cleared, revealing the view of the Picos de Europa in the distance. It was a breathtaking sight and a farewell, as today marks our final day walking through the Cantabrian region.

Castro to Liendo

 Day 12: Castro-Urdiales to Liendo – 16.8 miles (27 km)

The weather remained cloudy and refreshingly cool. Today’s route covered a moderate distance and was mostly flat, winding through charming towns and villages. We enjoyed scenic coastal views and gentle rolling hills along the way.

We got lost a couple of times. Navigating with electronic maps and yellow arrows can be tricky, as they don’t always align or point clearly. Still, it added a bit of adventure to the day!

 

Rúa to Santiago

The final stage to Santiago is 20 km. We were excited to reach Santiago, but we felt sad that it was the last day of our journey. All morning, it was raining and foggy.

Our hotel host recommended that we take an alternative route to Santiago to avoid the busier sections of El Camino. We hiked along the freeway towards Santiago and rejoined the main route when we reached the airport. From this section to the cathedral was busy, but when the rain got heavy, people found shelter in the cafes, and we kept walking. That was when we could enjoy the silence and the foggy day. As we arrived in Santiago, we started planning our next Camino.

After a long lunch, we reached Santiago in the early afternoon. We stayed outside the cathedral for an hour before going to the pilgrim’s office for our Compostela. We know we will return to Santiago; there are more Caminos to explore..

Arzúa to Rúa

Today’s hike was 18.5 km (12 miles). The terrain in this area is mostly flat.

As we left Arzúa, we observed the numerous pilgrims on various routes walking toward Santiago. It’s incredible to see the number of people hiking. While some are respectful of their surroundings, others blast music. For this segment of El Camino, it’s best to start hiking early in the morning to avoid the “rush hour.”

A Ponte Ferreira to Melide

El Camino primitivo

Today, we hiked about 20 km to Melide from Ponte Ferreira. We crossed a historic Roman bridge outside Ponte Ferreira, and at this point, I lost track of how many Roman or archeological zones we passed en route to Santiago.

The hike was easy. We walked through rural towns and villages, and a sense of tranquility was around us. We are approaching Melide, where the French Way and El Camino Primitivo cross. The trail will be busy in the coming days with people doing the last 100 km and those doing the French Way. Today is the last day to enjoy a quiet hike.

We arrived in Melide around lunchtime. It was busy; it was market day, and hundreds of pilgrims were walking on the streets. Some would spend the night here, and others were walking through. I have a feeling about how our hike will be tomorrow.

Lugo to A Ponte Ferreira

We spent one day in Lugo and had the opportunity to tour this walled city and learn about its importance during the Roman Empire.

In Lugo, several people have begun their journey to Santiago. We found more people and groups of recent high school graduates on the trail. Unfortunately, this group has been the loudest and listening to music on the trails.

The trails are now flat, with very little change in altitude, as in the Asturias area. Today is Sunday, and several bars and restaurants are closed, making it impossible to find a place to rest and drink coffee. We only found one restaurant, where we had to wait about 45 minutes until they opened the kitchen. While waiting, a group of English hikers told us that two of their friends had been attacked by a loose dog, and they had to call an ambulance to take them to the hospital.

In all the Caminos we have done, this is the first time we have heard of a dog attacking hikers on the trail.

O Cadavo to Lugo

Today, we completed our longest hike, covering 19.2 miles (32 kilometers) from O Cadavo to Lugo on the Camino Primitivo. This section of the Camino de Santiago offers a blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

We still have approximately 100 kilometers (about 62 miles) left to reach Santiago. Along our journey, we’ve had the opportunity to meet fellow hikers with diverse motivations for making this pilgrimage. Some seek spiritual enlightenment; the challenge of physical endurance draws others, while many are simply pursuing adventure. It’s been gratifying to share the path with various people. My daughter has kept a list of the people she’s met and their countries of origin. As a fun fact, she was the first to predict who would fall in love on “El Camino.”

We plan to take a break in the historic city of Lugo tomorrow. Lugo, originally a Roman settlement dating back to the year 25, is known for its well-preserved Roman walls and rich history. It is worth a visit.

Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada

We had a good evening in Grandas de Salime. We had dinner at Cafe Restrepo. This cafe/bar is a good place to spend the afternoon. It was different from the other cafes we had visited in other towns. It had good music and eclectic decoration, and the owners were very friendly. There were a good number of pilgrims here, and we had the opportunity to chat and meet new people. 

After a good night’s rest, we found that one hiker in our group could not walk today due to severe knee pain and tendonitis. We arranged for her to take a taxi to the next city and rest for the day. We were aware that today’s journey would be another 28 kilometers (17.5 miles)of descending and ascending hills. 

We left Grandas de Salime, which is in the Asturias region and started our journey toward A Fonsagrada, a town in the Galicia region. Most of the hike was good, but the last part leading into A Fonsagrada presented a challenging uphill climb, where we ascended 120 meters (400 feet). After hiking for six hours, it was cruel to finally see the town at the top of a hill.  As we were ascending the last hill, we heard someone shouting behind us. Of course, I wasn’t the only one who used the F word and cursed at the sight of that daunting hill.